Handbook of Natural Colorants
John Wiley & Sons Inc (Verlag)
978-0-470-51199-2 (ISBN)
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Concentration on renewable resources, sustainability and replacement of oil based products are driving forces to reassess the potential of natural resources including natural colorants. The growing consumer interest in purchasing “green” products, which exhibit an improved environmental profile, can be seen as the break-through force needed to reintroduce natural colorants into the modern markets. Written by scientists with specialised knowledge in the field, Handbook of Natural Colorants provides a unique source of information, summarising the present knowledge of natural colorants in depth. Supporting researchers in this emerging field of sustainable chemistry, it provides easy access to the theory and practice of natural colorants from different viewpoints, including agricultural, economic and legislative aspects.
Topics covered include:
History of coloration technology
Present position of natural colorants
Regional plant source availability
Specific application techniques
Chemical properties that professional dyers and chemists have to consider
Agricultural sourcing of dyes with an emphasis on renewable resources
Discussions on energy and material balance issues arising from the sourcing of materials
Production aspects of colorants, leading on to the key applications
Environmental and economic aspects
Also included are the pros and cons of natural dyestuffs, presenting some promising results and evaluating the potential use of vegetable dyes as alternatives to chemical-based ones with a focus on green chemistry
Dr Thomas Bechtold is Head of the Institute for Textile Chemistry and Textile Physics at the Leopold-Franzens University of Innsbruck, Austria. His key research interests are: dyeing with vat, indigo and sulfur dyes; electrochemistry in textile processes; formulation of special detergents. He has published over 70 papers in this research field in the last 20 years. Dr Rita Mussak is based in the Department of Theoretical Chemistry at the Leopold-Franzens University of Innsbruck, Austria.
List of Contributors xv
Series Preface xix
Preface xxi
Part I Historical Aspects 1
1 History of Natural Dyes in the Ancient Mediterranean World 3
Maria J. Melo
1.1 Introduction 3
1.1.1 Ancient Mediterranean World 3
1.1.2 Dyes from Antiquity 4
1.1.3 Unveiling the Secrets of Ancient Dyes with Modern Science 5
1.2 Ancient Reds 6
1.2.1 Anthraquinone Reds 6
1.2.2 Redwoods 8
1.2.3 Flavylium/Anthocyanin Reds 8
1.3 Ancient Blues 10
1.3.1 Indigo Blues 10
1.3.2 Anthocyanin Blues 12
1.4 Ancient Purple (Tyrian Purple) 13
1.5 Ancient Yellows 15
1.5.1 Flavonoid Yellows 15
1.5.2 Carotenoid Yellows 17
1.5.3 Chalcone and Aurone Yellows 17
Acknowledgement 17
References 17
2 Colours in Civilizations of the World and Natural Colorants: History under Tension 21
Dominique Cardon
2.1 Introduction 21
2.2 The Triumph of Mauvein: Synthetic Fulfilment of the Antique Purplemania 22
2.3 Blue: from Kingly Regional to Globally Democratic 23
2.4 Red and Yellow: from Micro to Macro Scales 24
2.5 What Future for Natural Colorants in the Dawning Era of Renewable Resources? 25
Acknowledgement 26
References 26
3 History of Natural Dyes in North Africa ‘Egypt’ 27
Harby Ezzeldeen Ahmed
3.1 Introduction 27
3.2 Natural Dyes in Pharaonic Textiles 28
3.3 Dyeing Techniques 28
3.4 Dye Sources 29
3.4.1 Woad 29
3.4.2 Indigo 30
3.4.3 Red 30
3.4.4 Yellow 30
3.4.5 Black 31
3.4.6 Brown 31
3.4.7 Green 31
3.4.8 Purple 31
3.5 Dyeing in Coptic Textiles 31
3.6 Wool Dyed Fabric with Natural Dye 33
3.7 Dyes in Islamic Textiles 33
3.8 Mordants 34
References 36
Part II Regional Aspects of Availability of Plant Sources 37
4 Dye Plants in Europe 39
Andrea Biertümpfel and Günter Wurl
4.1 Introduction 39
4.2 Potential European Dye Plants 39
4.3 Cultivation of Dye Plants Yesterday and Now 40
4.4 Modern Cultivation Methods for Important European Dye Plants 41
4.4.1 General Facts 41
4.4.2 Blue Dyeing Plants 42
4.4.3 Red Dyeing Plants 43
4.4.4 Yellow Dyeing Plants 44
4.4.5 Brown Dyeing Plants 46
4.5 Production of Dye Extracts 48
4.6 Relevant Examples for the Application 50
4.7 Conclusions, Discussion and Summary 50
References 51
5 Dyes in South America 53
Veridiana Vera de Rosso and Adriana Zerlotti Mercadante
5.1 Introduction 53
5.2 Annatto 55
5.3 Turmeric 57
5.4 Marigold 59
5.5 Cochineal and Carmine 60
Acknowledgements 62
References 62
6 Natural Dyes in Eastern Asia (Vietnam and Neighbouring Countries) 65
Hoang Thi Linh
6.1 Introduction 65
6.2 Annatto (Botanical Name Bixa orellana L., Family Bixaceae) 65
6.3 Tea (Botanical Name Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze, Family Theaceae) 67
6.4 Umbrella Tree (Botanical Name Terminalia catappa L., Family Combretaceae) 67
6.5 Diospyros mollis – Mackloeur (Botanical Name Diospyros mollis L. Griff, Family Ebenaceae) 68
6.6 Indigo (Botanical Name Indigofera L., Family Fabaceae) 68
6.6.1 Indigofera tinctoria L. 68
6.6.2 Indigofera galegoides DC. 69
6.6.3 Strobilanthes cusia (Baphicacanthus) 69
6.7 Henna (kok khan, or khao youak in Laos) (Botanical Name Lawsonia spinosa L., Family Lythraceae) 69
6.8 Nacre (Botanical Name Khaya senegalensis, Family Meliaceae) 69
6.9 Sappan Wood (Botanical Name Caesalpinia sappan L., Family Fabaceae) 69
6.10 Sophora japonica Flowers (Botanical Name Sophora japonica L., Family Leguminosae) 70
6.11 Turmeric (Botanical Name Curcuma longa L., Family Zingiberaceae) 70
6.12 Sapodilla (Botanical Name Manilkara zapota L. or Achras zapota, Family Sapotaceae) 70
6.13 Betel (Botanical Name Piper betle L., Family Piperaceae) 71
6.14 Eucalyptus (Botanical Name Eucalyptus, Family Myrtaceae) 71
6.15 Caesalpinia Yellow (Botanical Name Caesalpinia pulcherrima L., Family Fabaceae) 71
6.16 Brow-tuber (Botanical Name Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour, Family Dioscoreaceae) 71
Part III Colorant Production and Properties 73
7 Indigo – Agricultural Aspects 75
Philip John and Luciana Gabriella Angelini
7.1 Introduction 75
7.2 Isatis 76
7.2.1 Introduction 76
7.2.2 Agronomy 77
7.3 Persicaria (Polygonum) 92
7.3.1 Introduction 92
7.3.2 Agronomy 93
7.4 Indigofera 101
Acknowledgements 103
References 103
8 Indigo – Extraction 105
Philip John
8.1 Introduction 105
8.2 Methods of Determining Indigo 106
8.3 Precursors in the Plants and Indigo Formation 108
8.4 Extraction Procedures 114
8.4.1 Traditional Process Using Crushed Leaf Material 114
8.4.2 Steeping in Water 117
8.5 Purity of Natural Indigo 126
Acknowledgements 130
References 130
9 Anthocyanins: Nature’s Glamorous Palette 135
Maria J. Melo, Fernando Pina and Claude Andary
9.1 Chemical Basis 135
9.1.1 Chemical Structures 135
9.1.2 Equilibria in Solution 137
9.1.3 Colour and Colour Stability 140
9.1.4 Anthocyanins as Antioxidants 141
9.2 Natural Sources for Anthocyanins 142
9.2.1 Plant Sources, Content, Influencing Parameters 142
9.3 Applications 144
9.3.1 Food Colorants 144
9.3.2 Other Uses 145
9.4 Examples of Commercial Products and Processing 146
References 147
10 Natural Colorants – Quinoid, Naphthoquinoid and Anthraquinoid Dyes 151
Thomas Bechtold
10.1 Introduction 151
10.2 Benzoquinone Dyes 151
10.3 Naphthoquinone Dyes 152
10.3.1 Lawson (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, CI Natural Orange 6) 153
10.3.2 Juglone (5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, CI Natural Brown 7) 156
10.4 Anthraquinone Dyes 157
10.4.1 Main Components Emodin and Chrysophanol –Rheum Species and Rumex Species 157
10.4.2 Main Components Alizarin and/or Pseudopurpurin/Purpurin 159
10.5 Other Sources of Anthraquinoid Dyes 171
References 171
11 Dyes from Lichens and Mushrooms 183
Riikka Raisanen
11.1 Use of Lichen and Mushroom Dyes in the Past 183
11.2 Cultivation of Lichens and Mushrooms 184
11.3 Dyestuffs in Lichens and Mushrooms 185
11.3.1 Lichen Dyestuffs: Orchils and Litmus 185
11.3.2 Yellowish, Brownish and Reddish Colorants from Lichen 191
11.3.3 Benzoquinone Derivatives 192
11.3.4 Anthraquinones 192
11.3.5 Other Colorants of Fungi 196
11.4 Colour-fastness of Lichen and Mushroom Dyes 197
11.5 New Approaches to Lichen and Fungal Natural Dyes 198
References 198
12 Tannins and Tannin Agents 201
Riitta Julkunen-Tiitto and Hely Haggman
12.1 Introduction 201
12.2 Chemical Structure, Biosynthesis and Degradation 203
12.3 Properties of Tannins 207
12.4 Chemical Activities of Tannins 208
12.5 Analysis of Tannins 209
12.5.1 Sample Preservation 209
12.5.2 Extraction and Purification 209
12.5.3 Quantification of Tannins 210
12.6 Use, Toxicology and Safety Aspects of Tannins 212
References 214
13 Carotenoid Dyes – Properties 221
U. Gamage Chandrika
13.1 Introduction 221
13.1.1 Occurrence of Carotenoids 221
13.1.2 Chemistry of Carotenoids 221
13.1.3 Chemical Characteristics of Natural Carotenoids 222
13.2 Properties and Functions of Carotenoids 225
13.2.1 Carotenoids Role as Pro-vitamin A 225
13.2.2 Use of Carotenoids as Markers of Dietary Practices 227
13.2.3 Carotenoids as Antioxidants 227
13.2.4 Carotenoids in the Macular Region of the Retina 227
13.2.5 Carotenoids as Anticancer Agent 228
13.2.6 Carotenoids as a Natural Colorant 228
13.3 General Procedure for Carotenoid Analysis 228
13.3.1 Sampling 228
13.3.2 Extraction 230
13.3.3 Saponification of Carotenoids 230
13.3.4 Chromatographic Separation 230
13.3.5 Chemical Tests 231
13.3.6 Detection and Identification of Carotenoids 231
13.3.7 Quantification of Carotenoids 233
13.4 Problems in Carotenoid Analysis 233
References 234
14 Carotenoid Dyes – Production 237
U. Gamage Chandrika
14.1 Factors Influencing Carotenoid Composition in Plant Sources 237
14.1.1 Stage of Maturity 237
14.1.2 Cultivar or Varietal Differences 238
14.1.3 Climatic or Geographic Effects 238
14.1.4 Post-harvest Storage and Packing 239
14.1.5 Changes in Processing/Cooking 239
14.1.6 Effect of Agrochemicals 241
References 241
15 Chlorophylls 243
Ursula Maria Lanfer Marquez and Daniela Borrmann
15.1 Introduction 243
15.2 Chlorophylls as Colorants 244
15.3 Other Applications of Chlorophylls and their Derivatives 247
15.4 Chemical Structures and Physicochemical Properties 247
15.5 Stability and Analysis 250
15.6 Sources, Storage and Handling 250
15.7 Purity, Standardization and Quality Control 251
15.8 Toxicological and Safety Aspects 252
References 253
Part IV Application in Technical Use and Consumer Products 255
16 Flavonoids as Natural Pigments 257
M. Monica Giusti and Taylor C. Wallace
16.1 Introduction 257
16.2 Role of Localized Flavonoids in the Plant 258
16.3 General Flavonoid Chemical Structure 258
16.4 Biosynthesis of Flavonoids 259
16.5 Anthocyanins as Natural Colorants 261
16.5.1 Color Stability 261
16.5.2 Structure 261
16.5.3 Structural Transformation and pH 263
16.5.4 Temperature 264
16.5.5 Oxygen and Ascorbic Acid 264
16.5.6 Light 265
16.5.7 Enzymes and Sugars 265
16.5.8 Sulfur Dioxide 266
16.5.9 Co-pigmentation and Metal Complexation 267
16.6 Other Flavonoids as Natural Colorants 268
16.6.1 Yellow Flavonoid Pigments 268
16.6.2 Tannins 269
16.7 Therapeutic Effects of Flavonoids in the Diet 270
16.8 Regulations on the Use of Flavonoid Colorants 271
References 272
17 Application of Natural Dyes in the Coloration of Wood 277
Martin Weigl, Andreas Kandelbauer, Christian Hansmann, Johannes Pöckl, Ulrich Müller and Michael Grabner
17.1 Introduction 277
17.1.1 General Basics 278
17.1.2 Color Measurement 282
17.1.3 Color Stability 283
17.2 Coatings 283
17.3 Dyes 285
17.3.1 Dyeing for Analytical Purposes 285
17.3.2 Impregnation 286
17.4 Color Modification 290
17.4.1 Drying 291
17.4.2 Steaming 295
17.4.3 Thermal Treatment 297
17.4.4 Ammoniation 298
17.4.5 Bleaching 301
17.4.6 Enzymatic Treatment 303
17.4.7 Radiation 305
17.5 Outlook 308
References 308
18 Natural Colorants in Textile Dyeing 315
Rita A. M. Mussak and Thomas Bechtold
18.1 Introduction 315
18.2 Reasons for Natural Coloration 316
18.3 Analysis of a Dyeing Process 317
18.3.1 Water 318
18.3.2 Energy 318
18.3.3 Dyestuff and Chemicals (Mordants and Auxiliaries) 319
18.3.4 Machinery 321
18.4 Basics of Natural Dyeings 321
18.4.1 Requirements of the Dyestuff 321
18.4.2 Dye-ability of Substrates 321
18.4.3 Standardization of the Dyestuff 326
18.4.4 Ecological Aspects 327
18.4.5 Aspects of Application 328
18.4.6 Dyeing Technology 329
18.4.7 Mordanting 330
18.4.8 Standardization of the Coloration Process 331
18.4.9 Mixtures of Plant Material 331
18.5 Natural Dyes on an Industrial Scale 332
18.5.1 Hank Dyeing of Woolen Yarn and Production of Woolen Caps 332
18.5.2 Dyeing of Cones in a Yarn Dyeing Machine 333
18.5.3 Dyeing of Cotton Fabric on a Jet Dyeing Machine 333
18.5.4 Dyeing of Cotton Fabric on a Jig Dyeing Machine 333
18.5.5 Fabric Dyeing on a Garment Dyeing Machine 333
18.5.6 Dyeing of Polyamide Tights in a Paddle Dyeing Machine 334
18.6 Conclusion 334
Acknowledgment 334
References 335
19 Natural Colorants in Hair Dyeing 339
Thomas Bechtold
19.1 Introduction 339
19.2 Human Hair 340
19.3 General Requirements on Hair Dyeing Concepts 340
19.4 Chemical Principles of Dyestuff Binding 341
19.5 Relevant Natural Dyes for Hair Dyeing 342
19.5.1 Naphthoquinone Dyes – Henna and Walnut 342
19.5.2 Indigo 343
19.5.3 Metal Complexes 345
19.5.4 Metal Reaction Dyes 346
19.5.5 Anthraquinoid Dyes 347
19.6 Specialities 347
19.7 Regulations 347
References 347
Part V Environmental 351
20 Environmental Aspects and Sustainability 353
Erika Ganglberger
20.1 Introduction 353
20.2 Supply of Plant Material 354
20.2.1 Cultivation of Dye Plants 354
20.2.2 Residual Materials and By-products 355
20.2.3 Selection Process for a Sustainable Supply of Plant Material 356
20.3 Processing to Dyestuff 357
20.3.1 Energy Consumption 358
20.3.2 Water Consumption 359
20.4 Application of Colouring Matter 360
20.4.1 Dyeing Procedure 361
20.5 Considerations Concerning the Life Cycle 361
20.5.1 Raw Material 361
20.5.2 Processing of Raw Material 362
20.5.3 Extraction of Dyestuff 362
20.5.4 Dyeing Procedure 363
20.5.5 Transport 363
20.6 Conclusion 364
20.6.1 Dealing with Sustainability 364
References 365
21 Economic Aspects of Natural Dyes 367
Susanne Geissler
21.1 Introduction 367
21.2 Basic Requirements for the Industrial Use of Natural Colorants 368
21.3 Challenges for the Industrial Use of Natural Colorants 370
21.3.1 Quality of Raw Material and Reproducibility of Colours 370
21.3.2 Range of Available Colours 370
21.4 Consumer Expectations 371
21.4.1 Market Research for Naturally Dyed Products 372
21.5 Production Costs of Natural Colorant Products 375
21.5.1 Cost Categories 375
21.5.2 Aspects Influencing Production Costs 376
21.5.3 Prices of Synthetic Dyes – How Much Are Textile Companies Prepared to Pay for Dyes? 378
21.5.4 Acceptable Production Costs through a Mixed Portfolio (Agricultural Primary Production and Residues from Other Production Processes) 379
21.6 Closed-Loop Economy: Towards a Zero-Emission and Zero-Waste Society 381
21.7 Conclusion: Aspects Influencing Market Development for Natural Colorants 382
References 383
Index 385
| Reihe/Serie | Wiley Series in Renewable Resources |
|---|---|
| Verlagsort | New York |
| Sprache | englisch |
| Maße | 178 x 252 mm |
| Gewicht | 889 g |
| Themenwelt | Naturwissenschaften ► Chemie |
| Technik | |
| ISBN-10 | 0-470-51199-0 / 0470511990 |
| ISBN-13 | 978-0-470-51199-2 / 9780470511992 |
| Zustand | Neuware |
| Informationen gemäß Produktsicherheitsverordnung (GPSR) | |
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