Inventories of Textiles - Textiles in Inventories (eBook)

Studies on Late Medieval and Early Modern Material Culture

Thomas Ertl, Barbara Karl (Autoren)

Thomas Ertl, Barbara Karl (Herausgeber)

eBook Download: PDF

2017 | 1. Auflage
245 Seiten
Vandenhoeck & Ruprecht Unipress (Verlag)
978-3-8470-0392-2 (ISBN)

Infos

Inventories are among the oldest documents to survive from ancient times. Textiles take an important place within them and inform - among other things - about value, context of use, material, fashion, trade or techniques. This is all the more relevant, as textiles were then the most important trade goods after bullion and food. The articles of this volume focus on the time between the High Middle Ages and the Early Modern Period. They represent different approaches to this fascinating topic whose social framework includes popes, kings, merchants and farmers.

Thomas Ertl war von 2011 bis 2017 Professor für Wirtschafts- und Sozialgeschichte des Mittelalters an der Universität Wien. Seit Oktober 2018 lehrt er an der Freien Universität Berlin die Geschichte des hohen und späten Mittelalters.

Autor

Thomas Ertl war von 2011 bis 2017 Professor für Wirtschafts- und Sozialgeschichte des Mittelalters an der Universität Wien. Seit Oktober 2018 lehrt er an der Freien Universität Berlin die Geschichte des hohen und späten Mittelalters.Dr. Barbara Karl ist Kuratorin der Sammlung des Textilmuseums St.Gallen (CH). Der Schwerpunkt ihrer Forschungen und Publikationen widmet sich Textilien und Sammlungsgeschichte vor dem Hintergrund des intranationalen kulturellen Austauschs der frühen Neuzeit bis ins 19. Jahrhundert.

Inhalt

Title Page 4
Copyright 5
Table of Contents 6
Body 8
Preface 8
Thomas Ertl and Barbara Karl: Introduction – Inventories of Textiles / Textiles in Inventories 10
Our Interest 15
Questioning the Inventories 16
Textiles 21
Christiane Elster: Inventories and Textiles of the Papal Treasury around the Year 1300: Concepts of Papal Representation in Written and Material Media 26
Introducing the Pontifical Treasury and its Documentation in the Inventories 28
Aspects of Material Discourse in the Textile Entries of the Inventories 33
1. The Repeated Notices of Provenance 33
2. The Composite Objects, Comprised of Materials from Various Provenances 48
Material Discourse and Political Claims of the Papacy 50
Conclusion 54
Thomas Ertl: The Bishop of Freising Visits His Estates (1316–1320): Conrad III. Sendlinger and his Inventories 58
Conclusion 69
Sarah-Grace Heller: Revisiting the Inventories of Artois: Fashion, Status, and Taste at the Court of Mahaut, c. 1307–1310 74
Mahaut and Her Household 76
Novelty and Rates of Wardrobe Renewal, 1307–1310 78
Personal Choice and Distinction 82
Making Personal Choices: The Shopping Process 84
Conclusions 87
Lisa Monnas: Reading English Royal Inventories: Furnishings and Clothing in the Inventory of King Henry V (r. 1413–1422) 90
Furnishing Textiles 98
Linens 101
Clothes 104
Conclusion 110
Annemarie Stauffer: A Purchase List from the Court of Charles the Bold from 1473 112
Introduction 112
The source 113
Style and cut of the clothes 118
Types of fabric 121
Colours and dyes 124
Conclusion 125
Appendix 1: Elements of dress 126
Appendix 2: Textile qualities and colours 126
Qualities and colours without single garments 127
Richard Stapleford: Household Goods in the 1492 Inventory of the Estate of Lorenzo de' Medici 128
Hedda Reindl-Kiel: The Empire of Fabrics: The Range of Fabrics in the Gift Traffic of the Ottomans 144
Names and Terms of Ottoman Fabrics 163
Primary Sources 164
Chiara Buss: Half-tints in Italy in 1628: An Unusual Book of Samples from the Milan State Archives 166
The Document 166
Known Terms 169
Unknown Terms 169
Historical Context 169
Checking Information from the Mostre 172
New Colours: the Half-Tints 174
Names of Half-Tints and their Meaning 181
Avinato 181
Beretino 184
Camozzino 188
Cavelino 190
Colombino 193
Color d'aria 194
Lionato 196
Zizzolino 199
List of Archives 201
List of Magazines 201
Burkhard Pöttler: Clothing and Cloths in Styrian Probate Inventories of the Late 17th and 18th Centuries 202
Introduction 202
Characteristics of Styrian Probate Inventories 203
Methodological Considerations 205
Cloths and Materials 207
Textiles in Domestic Contexts, Dress and Work Contexts 210
Auctions 216
Conclusion 218
List of Archives and Primary Sources 219
John Jordan and Gabi Schopf: Fictive Descriptions? Words, Textiles, and Inventories in Early Modern Switzerland 220
Fabric and Materials 226
Patterns 230
Origins 234
Conclusions 237
Archival Primary Sources 239
Printed Primary Sources 239
Index of Names 240
Index of Places 244

Produkt-Details

• Erscheint lt. Verlag: 12.6.2017
• Co-Autor: Burkhard Pöttler, Richard Stapleford, Sarah-Grace Heller, Annemarie Stauffer, Chiara Giannelli Buss, Christiane Elster, Gabi Schopf, John Jordan, Lisa Monnas, Hedda Reindl-Kiel, Thomas Ertl, Barbara Karl
• Mitarbeit: Berater: Heinz Fassmann
• Zusatzinfo: mit 36 Abbildungen
• Verlagsort: Göttingen
• Sprache: englisch
• Themenwelt: Geisteswissenschaften
• Themenwelt: Technik
• Schlagworte: Archivgeschichte • Economic History • Fashion • Frühe Neuzeit • Kulturaustausch • Mittelalter • Mode • Modegeschichte • Textilien • Wirtschaftsgeschichte
• ISBN-10: 3-8470-0392-5 / 3847003925
• ISBN-13: 978-3-8470-0392-2 / 9783847003922