Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
Seiten
2010
Cambridge University Press (Verlag)
978-0-521-12995-4 (ISBN)
Cambridge University Press (Verlag)
978-0-521-12995-4 (ISBN)
This richly illustrated book describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, shelf seas and coastal regions. It progresses from basic physical and statistical concepts, to the prediction of waves. It will be of interest to graduate students, researchers and engineers.
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Leo H. Holthuijsen teaches at the Delft University of Technology and UNESCO-IHE (Institute for Water Education) in the Netherlands.
1. Introduction; 2. Observation techniques; 3. Description of ocean waves; 4. Statistics; 5. Linear wave theory (oceanic waters); 6. Waves in oceanic waters; 7. Linear wave theory (coastal waters); 8. Waves in coastal waters; 9. The SWAN wave model; Appendices; References; Index.
| Erscheint lt. Verlag | 4.2.2010 |
|---|---|
| Zusatzinfo | Worked examples or Exercises |
| Verlagsort | Cambridge |
| Sprache | englisch |
| Maße | 170 x 244 mm |
| Gewicht | 640 g |
| Themenwelt | Naturwissenschaften ► Geowissenschaften ► Hydrologie / Ozeanografie |
| Technik | |
| ISBN-10 | 0-521-12995-8 / 0521129958 |
| ISBN-13 | 978-0-521-12995-4 / 9780521129954 |
| Zustand | Neuware |
| Informationen gemäß Produktsicherheitsverordnung (GPSR) | |
| Haben Sie eine Frage zum Produkt? |
Mehr entdecken
aus dem Bereich
aus dem Bereich
die große Bild-Enzyklopädie mit mehr als 2000 Fotografien und …
Buch | Hardcover (2023)
Dorling Kindersley (Verlag)
CHF 79,90
the Arcturus expedition, 1925
Buch | Hardcover (2025)
Secant Publishing (Verlag)
CHF 52,35
