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Film and Fashion in Japan, 1923-39 - Lois Barnett

Film and Fashion in Japan, 1923-39

Consuming the 'West'

(Autor)

Buch | Softcover
288 Seiten
2025
Edinburgh University Press (Verlag)
978-1-4744-9771-8 (ISBN)
CHF 43,60 inkl. MwSt
Examines Western-inspired fashion objects in Japanese cinema between 1923 and 1939
The book examines the interaction between the audience member and Japan's film and fashion industries between 1923 and 1939, focusing on Western-inspired fashion objects (as opposed to indigenous Japanese items, such as the kimono). This interdisciplinary book examines the semiotics of dress onscreen within Japan’s transcultural media climate, consulting not only film- or fashion-related theoretical bases but also historical and gender-based approaches. The work consults surviving films, print media and advertising materials, allowing insights into lost films and the period's commercial context.

The book discusses the role of fashion consumption in defining emergent modern identities and their relationships with new spaces, questioning their arising in Japan and worldwide. Key areas include the expressive Modern Girl image (the Japanese equivalent of the Hollywood flapper); the relationship between the body and sportswear and hybridised dress styles (which combined Japanese and Western-influenced aesthetics); and menswear in the early work of director Ozu Yasujirō.

Lois J. E. Barnett is a Postdoctoral Research Associate at the School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London (SOAS).

Introduction: Defining, Theorising and Approaching Japanese Film, Fashion and Modernity

Part 1 - On Sartoriality and Speaking: ‘Expressive’ Women and Western Attire

1.1 - Fashionable female imagery between media formats: Tanizaki Jun’ichirō’s Naomi (1924) and the concept of marketable female star "types"

1.2 - Sartoriality and Expressivity Pre- and Post- Sound: The Vernacular Voice, The Western-Attired Woman and the City

1.3 - Fashion Commodities Onscreen:the Modern Housewife in Naruse Mikio’s No Blood Relation (Nasanu Naka, 1932) and Masculine Female Attire in Ozu Yasujirō’s Dragnet Girl (Hijōsen no onna, 1933)

Part 2 - Sportswear and Hybridity: The National Body and Gender

2.1 - Sportswear and Hybridity: The Middle-Class Housewife as Hybridised Consumer Archetype

2.2 - Women and the Sporting Body

2.3 - Men and the Sporting Body

Part 3 - Menswear and the Modern Boy: Ozu Yasujirō and Western Style for Men

3.1 - Historically Contextualising Japanese Male Fashion: Western-style Menswear, the Cinema and Space

3.2 - Opposition to Western-style Menswear and the Desire for "Authentic" Japanese Male Commercial Identity Archetypes:Shōchiku’s shōshimin eiga and Ozu’s commercially augmented everyday male life onscreen

3.3 – Was Ozu a "Modern Boy"? Negotiating Related Sartorial Archetypes

Book Conclusion

Reference List

Filmography

Erscheinungsdatum
Reihe/Serie Film and Fashions
Zusatzinfo 35 colour illustrations
Verlagsort Edinburgh
Sprache englisch
Maße 170 x 244 mm
Themenwelt Kunst / Musik / Theater Design / Innenarchitektur / Mode
Kunst / Musik / Theater Film / TV
Kunst / Musik / Theater Kunstgeschichte / Kunststile
Sozialwissenschaften Kommunikation / Medien Medienwissenschaft
ISBN-10 1-4744-9771-3 / 1474497713
ISBN-13 978-1-4744-9771-8 / 9781474497718
Zustand Neuware
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