Cosmetic Dermatology (eBook)
John Wiley & Sons (Verlag)
978-1-118-65548-1 (ISBN)
Back for a new edition, Zoe Draelos' outstanding resource to cosmetic dermatology again provides a highly-illustrated, clinical guide to the full range of cosmetic skin treatments.
Bringing together experts from research, industry, surgery and practice, it is structured in four distinct parts for easy navigation by the busy clinician:
Basic Concepts - giving an overview of the physiology pertinent to cosmetic dermatology and the delivery systems by which treatments can take effect;
Hygiene Products - evaluating cleansing and moisturising products;
Adornment - looking at aesthetic techniques such as cosmetics, nail protheses and hair treatment;
Antiaging - ie, injectables, resurfacing and skin contouring techniques, and the rapidly growing area of Cosmeceuticals.
With over 300 high-quality images and key summary boxes throughout, this new edition incorporates the newest procedural innovations in this rapidly developing field. Perfect for all dermatologists, especially those specialising in cosmetic dermatology and whether hospital-based or in private practice, it provides the complete cosmetic regimen for your patients and will be an indispensable tool to consult over and over again.
Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, Consulting Professor, Department of Dermatology, Duke University School of Medicine, North Carolina; President, Dermatology Consulting Services, High Point, North Carolina, USA
In addition to maintaining a private practice, Dr. Draelos is a consulting professor of dermatology at Duke University School of Medicine, Durham, N.C. She is President of Dermatology Consulting Services and has conducted over 480 clinical studies researching and developing cosmeceuticals, skin care devices, and pharmaceuticals. She has written eight dermatology textbooks and contributed over 90 chapters and 300 scientific articles to the literature. She is the current editor-in-chief of the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology and a well established expert in the field for 28 years.
Back for a new edition, Zoe Draelos' outstanding resource to cosmetic dermatology again provides a highly-illustrated, clinical guide to the full range of cosmetic skin treatments.Bringing together experts from research, industry, surgery and practice, it is structured in four distinct parts for easy navigation by the busy clinician:Basic Concepts - giving an overview of the physiology pertinent to cosmetic dermatology and the delivery systems by which treatments can take effect;Hygiene Products - evaluating cleansing and moisturising products;Adornment - looking at aesthetic techniques such as cosmetics, nail protheses and hair treatment;Antiaging - ie, injectables, resurfacing and skin contouring techniques, and the rapidly growing area of Cosmeceuticals.With over 300 high-quality images and key summary boxes throughout, this new edition incorporates the newest procedural innovations in this rapidly developing field. Perfect for all dermatologists, especially those specialising in cosmetic dermatology and whether hospital-based or in private practice, it provides the complete cosmetic regimen for your patients and will be an indispensable tool to consult over and over again.
Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, Consulting Professor, Department of Dermatology, Duke University School of Medicine, North Carolina; President, Dermatology Consulting Services, High Point, North Carolina, USA In addition to maintaining a private practice, Dr. Draelos is a consulting professor of dermatology at Duke University School of Medicine, Durham, N.C. She is President of Dermatology Consulting Services and has conducted over 480 clinical studies researching and developing cosmeceuticals, skin care devices, and pharmaceuticals. She has written eight dermatology textbooks and contributed over 90 chapters and 300 scientific articles to the literature. She is the current editor-in-chief of the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology and a well established expert in the field for 28 years.
Cosmetic Dermatology Products and Procedures 3
Contents 7
Contributors 10
Foreword 14
Preface 15
Part I Basic Concepts 17
Section 1: Skin Physiology Pertinent to Cosmetic Dermatology 19
Chapter 1 Epidermal Barrier 19
Introduction 19
Structural components of the epidermal barrier 19
Corneocytes 19
Proteins of the cornified envelope 20
Lamellar granules and inter?corneocyte lipids 21
Lipid–protein cross?links at the cornified envelope 21
Desmosomes and corneodesmosomes 21
Keratohyalin granules 21
Functions of epidermal barrier 21
Water evaporation barrier (epidermal permeability barrier) 21
Mechanical barrier 22
Antimicrobial barrier and immune protection 22
NMF and skin hydration/moisturization 22
Protection from environmental toxins and topical drugs penetration 23
Desquamation and the role of proteolytic enzymes 23
Melanin and UV barrier 23
Oxidative stress barrier 23
Regulation of barrier homeostasis 24
Desquamation 24
Corneocyte maturation 24
Lipid synthesis 24
Environmental and physiological factors 24
Hormones 24
pH and calcium 25
Coordinated regulation of multiple barrier functions 25
Methods for studying barrier structure and function 25
Physical methods 25
Instrumental methods 25
Biological methods 26
Relevance of skin barrier to cosmetic product development 26
Topical products that influence barrier functions 26
Cosmetics that restore skin barrier properties 26
Skin irritation from cosmetics 27
Summary and future trends 27
References 27
Chapter 2 Photoaging 29
Introduction 29
Definition 29
Physiology 29
Photoaged versus chronically aged skin 29
Photobiology 30
Cutaneous microvasculature 31
Molecular mechanisms of photoaging 31
Collagen 31
How does UV irradiation stimulate photoaging? 31
Reactive oxygen species 32
UV radiation inhibits procollagen production: TGF??/Smad signaling pathway 32
UV?induced matrix metalloproteinases stimulate collagen degradation 32
Fibroblasts regulate their own collagen synthesis 32
Elastosis and cathepsins 33
UVA induces the aging?associated progerin 33
Evolving data 33
Ethnic skin: photoaging 33
Prevention 34
Primary prevention 34
Secondary prevention 34
Inherent defense mechanisms 35
Failure of prevention: immunosuppression 35
Conclusions 35
References 36
Chapter 3 Pigmentation and Skin of Color 39
Introduction 39
Melanocytes 39
Dyspigmentation 41
Natural sun protective factor in skin of color 41
Skin of color 41
Epidermis 41
Transepidermal water loss 42
Skin reactivity 42
Dermis 43
Intrinsic skin aging in ethnic skin 43
Extrinsic aging (photoaging) of ethnic skin 44
Hair 45
References 47
Chapter 4 Sensitive Skin and the Somatosensory System 49
Introduction 49
Peripheral nervous system 49
Touch 50
Temperature 52
Pain 53
Itch 53
Pleasure 54
Sympathetic nerves 54
The central projections 54
Spinal cord 54
Brain 55
Conclusions 56
References 56
Chapter 5 Novel, Compelling, Non-invasive Techniques for Evaluating Cosmetic Products 58
Introduction 58
Commonly used non-invasive bioinstrumentation methods in cosmetic studies 59
Use of digital photography as a non-invasive technique for assessing skin features 59
Review of terminology in clinical photography 60
Visible light photography 60
Raking light photography 60
Polarized photography 61
UV reflectance photography 61
UV fluorescence photography 62
Use of raking light optical profilometry (RLOP) to detect improvements in periocular fine lines and wrinkles 62
A non-invasive method for assessing the antioxidant protection of topical formulations in humans 64
Use of image analysis for assessing a variety of skin conditions 65
Emerging technology for skin imaging and assessment 65
Conclusions 66
References 66
Chapter 6 Contact Dermatitis and Topical Agents 68
Introduction 68
Pathophysiology and clinical presentation 68
Irritant contact dermatitis 68
Allergic contact dermatitis 69
Phototoxic dermatitis 69
Contact urticaria 69
Foreign body reactions 69
Common irritants and allergen groups 70
Irritants 70
Fragrances 71
Preservatives 71
Botanicals 73
Specific cosmetic products 73
Cleansing agents 73
Moisturizers 73
Skin bleaching agents 73
Topical corticosteroids 73
Hair dyes and bleaches 74
Permanents 74
Nail products 74
Cosmetic application devices 74
Tattoos 74
Local anesthetics 75
Injectables 75
Diagnosis 76
Treatment 76
Conclusions 76
References 77
Section 2 Delivery of Cosmetic Skin Actives 81
Chapter 7 Percutaneous Delivery of Cosmetic Actives to the Skin 81
Introduction 81
The basics 81
Skin physiology 81
Active composition 81
Fick’s law 82
Vehicle effect 82
Delivery of actives from emulsions 82
Formulation strategies 82
Penetration enhancers 83
Chemical enhancers 84
Physical enhancers 85
Penetration enhancement vectors 85
Liposomes 85
Niosomes 85
Solid lipid nanoparticles 85
Nanocapsules 85
Devices for penetration enhancement 86
Ultrasound waves 86
Patches 86
Microneedles 86
Iontophoresis 87
In vitro and in vivo delivery assessment 87
Franz cell 87
Tape stripping 88
Microdialysis 88
Confocal Raman microspectroscopy 88
Conclusions and future trends 88
References 89
Chapter 8 Creams and Ointments 91
Definitions of creams (and lotions) and ointments 91
Creams (and lotions) 91
Ointments 92
Composition of a cream and an ointment 92
Oil-in-water cream 92
Ointments 93
References 95
Part II Hygiene Products 97
Section 1 Cleansers 99
Chapter 9 Bar Cleansers 99
Introduction 99
Cleansing bars – historical perspective 99
Formulation technology of cleansing bars 99
Continuous processing 100
Batch processing 100
Soap bars 100
Preservatives 101
Impact of cleansing bars on skin structure and function 101
Surfactant interaction with the skin–stratum corneum 101
Soap bar interactions with the stratum corneum 101
Synthetic detergent bar interactions with the stratum corneum 102
The role of pH 102
Cycle of dryness 104
Studies comparing mildness properties of soap and syndet cleansing bars 106
Controlled exposure trials 106
Normal usage trials 106
Benefits of mild cleansing for ashy skin 107
Benefits of mild cleansing for photodamaged skin 108
Practical implications of mild cleansing for patients with common skin disease 108
Benefits of mild cleansing for adults and children with mild atopic dermatitis 108
Benefits of mild cleansing for acne and rosacea patients 109
The future of cleansing bars 109
Conclusions 110
References 110
Further reading 111
Chapter 10 Personal Cleansers: Body Washes 112
Background 112
Types of body wash 112
Major formula components of body washes 113
Water 113
Surfactants 113
Skin benefit agents 113
Other ingredients 114
In?use performance considerations for body washes 114
Cleansing ability 114
Consumer understanding and need for moisturizing body washes 114
Moisturization from body washes 115
Who will benefit from using body washes? 116
Ashy skin 116
Atopic dermatitis 117
Conclusions 118
References 118
Chapter 11 Facial Cleansers and Cleansing Cloths 119
A brief history of facial cleansing 119
How facial cleansers work 120
Chemistry of cleansing 120
Physical cleaning 121
Types of facial cleanser 121
Lathering cleansers 121
Emollient (oil-based) cleansers 122
Scrubs 122
Cleansing milks 122
Toners 122
Substrate cleansers 122
Guide to selecting facial cleansers 123
Selection based on skin type 123
Selection based on cleanser form/cleansing ritual 124
Selection based on skin problems 124
Summary 125
References 125
Chapter 12 Hand Cleansers and Sanitizers 126
Introduction 126
Hand microbiota 126
Hand hygiene guidelines 128
Hand Hygiene Techniques and Compliance 128
Antimicrobial handwash and hand sanitizer formulations 129
Efficacy of antimicrobial handwashes and hand sanitizers 130
In vitro assays for potency and spectrum of activity 130
In vivo models with artificial inoculate to mimic transient flora 130
In vivo models with artificial inoculate to mimic resident flora 132
Clinical studies to demonstrate efficacy in reducing the burden of hand microbiota 132
Effectiveness of antimicrobial hand washes and hand sanitizers in institutional and community settings 133
Impact on nosocomial infections 133
Effectiveness of hand hygiene in the community setting 134
Handwash and hand sanitizer safety 134
Irritation associated with handwashes and hand sanitizers 134
Safety concerns specific to alcohol-based hand sanitizers 135
Development of microbial resistance to antimicrobial agents 135
Long-term effects on the skin microbiota 135
Future directions 136
References 136
Chapter 13 Shampoos for Normal Scalp Hygiene and Dandruff 140
Definition 140
Introduction 140
Product and formulation technology overview 141
Unique attributes of scalp care products 143
Retention of active on scalp 143
Spatial distribution of deposited active 144
Chemical bio-availability 145
Advantages and disadvantages of the use of therapeutic shampoos 145
Effective use of products 146
Benefits of use of scalp care shampoos 146
Summary 147
References 147
Section 2 Moisturizers 148
Chapter 14 Facial Moisturizers 148
Introduction 148
Dry facial skin 148
Facial moisturization 149
Facial moisturizer formulation 150
Moisturizer ingredients and function 150
Humectants 150
Occlusives 151
Emollients 151
Fragrance 151
Preservatives 152
Photoprotection and facial moisturizers 152
Facial moisturizer testing 152
Use of facial moisturizers in common inflammatory dermatoses 152
Conclusions 153
References 153
Further reading 153
Chapter 15 Hand and Foot Moisturizers 155
Introduction 155
Moisturization needs of the hand and foot 155
Moisturizing formulations and technologies 156
Natural moisturizing factors 156
Ultrastructural effects 158
Clinical demonstrations of product efficacy of sodium lactate and urea formulations 158
Hand care 158
Improvements in urea content 158
Improvement in eczema and xerosis 159
Foot care 159
The future: Next?generation moisturizers 160
Enhanced glycerol derivatives 161
Conclusions 162
References 162
Chapter 16 Sunless Tanning Products 164
Introduction 164
Sunless tanning products 164
Definition 164
Active ingredients 164
Mechanism of action of DHA 164
Alternate actives 165
Formulation challenges 165
pH and buffers 165
Processing and storage of DHA 165
Nitrogen-containing compounds 165
Sunscreens 165
Delivery vehicles 165
Creams and lotions 165
Gels and gelees 166
Regulatory considerations 166
Product attributes 166
Coloration 166
Evaluation 167
Moisturization 167
Trends in sunless tanning 167
Daily use moisturizers/glow 167
No-rub mists 167
Sunless tanning spray booths 167
Sunless tanning products with UV protection 167
Conclusions 167
References 167
Chapter 17 Sunscreens 169
Introduction 169
Regulatory status of sunscreens 169
Sunscreen classification 170
Approved UV filters 170
Development of sunscreens 171
Organic UV filters 171
Inorganic UV filters 171
Steps toward more efficient sunscreens 171
Formulation of sun protection products 172
Criteria and methods for evaluating the efficacy of sunscreen products 172
Determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) 172
SPF labeling 173
Determination of UVA protection level 174
UVA protection criteria 174
Conclusions 174
References 174
Section 3 Personal Care Products 176
Chapter 18 Antiperspirants and Deodorants 176
Introduction 176
Physiology 176
Sweat glands and how they work 176
Wetness and odor control and testing 178
Chemistry and formulation of antiperspirants 179
Delivery systems 179
Dermatologic concerns 180
Strengths and weakness of antiperspirants 181
Conclusions 181
References 181
Chapter 19 Blade Shaving 182
Introduction 182
Hair biology basics 183
The pilosebaceous unit 183
Hair growth cycle 183
Properties of hair – impact on shaving 184
Shaving and the razor explored 185
Evolution of the system razor 185
Cutting edge technology 185
The shaving process 187
Challenges within male blade shaving 188
Summary 188
References 188
Part III Adornment 191
Section 1 Colored Facial Cosmetics 193
Chapter 20 Facial Foundation 193
Introduction 193
Complexion makeup – an ancient practice 193
Ancient Mesopotamia (2500 bc) 193
Ancient Egypt (3rd millennium bc) 193
Ancient Greece 194
Ancient Rome 194
From the Middle Ages to the 19th century 194
20th century: the industrial era and diversification 194
Formulation diversity 194
Variety of formulations 195
Fluid foundations: emulsions 195
Compact foundations 195
Powders 196
Color creation 197
Pigments and coverage 197
Importance of fillers 197
When color and skincare combine 198
Facial foundation application 198
Emphasis on quality, safety and confirmed performance 198
Design stage 198
Formulation stage 198
Performance stage 198
Conclusions and prospects 200
References 200
Chapter 21 Camouflage Techniques 202
Introduction 202
Definitions 202
Camouflage makeup application procedures 202
Other camouflage therapies 204
Medical indications for camouflage makeup 204
Beginning a camouflage clinic 207
The camouflage therapist 208
Camouflage makeup and quality of life 208
Conclusions 208
References 208
Chapter 22 Lips and Lipsticks 209
Introduction 209
Lip anatomy 209
Labial epidermis 210
Lip dermis and lamina propria 210
Lip topology 210
Sensitivity of lips to the environment 210
Aging of the lips 210
Lip plumpness and cheilitis 211
Defects of lip pigmentation 211
Lipsticks 211
Lipstick formulation 211
Waxes 211
Waxy pastes 212
Oils 212
Texturing agents 212
Pigments 212
Antioxidants and preserving agents 213
Perfume 213
Active ingredients 213
Lip glosses and brilliances 213
Conclusions 213
References 213
Chapter 23 Eye Cosmetics 215
Definition 215
Eye cosmetic history 215
Eyelash physiology 216
Mascara 217
Mascara composition 217
Mascara applicator technology 217
Other eyelash treatments 218
Eyebrows 219
Eyeshadow 220
Eyeliners 220
Product application 220
Safety and regulatory considerations for eye area cosmetics 220
The future of eye cosmetics 221
Long wear 221
Pushing the applicator envelope 221
Lash conditioners and growers 222
References 222
Section 2 Nail Cosmetics 223
Chapter 24 Nail Physiology and Grooming 223
Introduction: Nail physiology 223
Nail unit anatomy 223
Nail matrix 223
Nail folds 223
Hyponychium 224
Nail bed 224
Other structures 225
Nail growth 225
Physical properties of nails 225
Nail composition 225
Nail flexibility 226
Nail thickness 226
Nail grooming principles 226
Nail care 226
Nail trimming 228
Nail buffing and filing 228
Nail painting 228
Care for brittle nails 229
Adverse effects from nail grooming 229
Allergic reactions to nail cosmetic ingredients 229
Irritant reactions 230
Nail cosmetic procedures 231
Conclusions 231
References 231
Further reading 231
Chapter 25 Colored Nail Cosmetics and Hardeners 233
Introduction 233
Application techniques 233
Lacquers, topcoats, and basecoats 233
Resins 235
Solvents 235
Plasticizers 235
Colorants 235
Thixotropic agents 236
Color stabilizers 236
Minor ingredients 236
Antifungal agents 236
Preservatives 236
Nail hardeners 236
Formaldehyde issues 238
UV gel “lacquers” (aka UV gel polish) 238
Nail lacquer removers 239
Conclusions and future developments 240
References 240
Chapter 26 Cosmetic Prostheses as Artificial Nail Enhancements 242
Introduction 242
Liquid and powder 242
Rebalancing 244
UV gels 244
Nail wraps 245
Artificial nail removal 246
Gel manicure/polish 246
Adverse reactions 247
Nail damage and infection 248
Education 248
UV nail lamp safety 249
References 249
Section 3 Hair Cosmetics 250
Chapter 27 Hair Physiology and Grooming 250
Definitions 250
Physiology 250
Hair follicle 250
Product of the hair follicle: the hair fiber 250
Human hair keratins 251
Grooming 253
Shampoos: formulations and diversity 253
Formulations 253
Conditioners 253
Conclusions 254
References 254
Chapter 28 Hair Dyes 255
Introduction 255
Definitions 255
Product subtypes 255
Temporary dyes 256
Semi-permanent dyes 256
Demi-permanent and permanent dyes 256
Bleaches 257
Chemistry 257
Natural hair pigmentation 257
Permanent hair dyes 258
Melanin bleaching 258
Oxidative dye formation 258
Formulation 258
Advantages and disadvantages 260
Advantages 260
Challenges 260
Product choice and application 260
Impact of hair dyes on hair structure 261
Recent technology strategies to minimize fiber damage 261
Caring for colored hair 262
Safety and regulatory considerations 262
Allergy 262
Key hair dye allergens 262
Allergy prevalence of hair dye allergy 262
Are children at higher risk to develop hair dye allergic reactions? 263
Allergy Alert Test 263
Permanent hair dyes with reduced allergy risk 263
Cancer 264
Conclusions 264
Acknowledgment 265
References 265
Chapter 29 Permanent Hair Waving 267
Introduction 267
Hair physiology 267
Permanent wave hair relevant properties 268
Hair geometry 268
Hair and water interaction 268
Hair aging 269
Hair chemical structure 269
Chemophysical principles of hair waving 270
Perm products and types 271
Role of permanent waving product ingredients 272
Different product types 274
Regulatory aspects of permanent hair waving 274
Perming practice – how to achieve a perfect curl 274
Safety of and adverse reactions to perm products 275
References 276
Chapter 30 Hair Straightening 278
Introduction 278
Thermal processing 279
Reducing agents 280
Ammonium thioglycolate 280
Sulfite 281
Hydroxide straighteners 281
Chemistry of relaxing 282
Application 282
Effect of relaxers on hair 283
Conclusions 284
Appendix 284
Thiol procedure with heat 284
References 285
Chapter 31 Hair Styling: Technology and Formulations 286
Introduction 286
Definitions 286
Physiology 286
Formulation 288
Polymer formulations 288
Wax and emollient formulations 289
Product forms, application, and uses 289
Hairsprays and liquid settings 289
Mousse 291
Gels and spray gels 291
Creams, pomades, and emulsions 291
Waxes and clays 291
Silicone serums and sprays 292
Products designed for African hair types 292
Protecting the hair structure with styling aides 294
Considerations for consultations with patients about hair styling 294
Future of hair styling aids – trends and technologic development 294
Conclusions 295
Acknowledgment 295
References 295
Part IV Anti-aging 297
Section 1 Cosmeceuticals 299
Chapter 32 Botanicals 299
Introduction 299
Regulatory 299
Factors affecting concentration and quality of active ingredients 300
Safety 300
Effectiveness 301
Mechanism of action 301
Cosmeceutical products 301
Specific herbs to treat or prevent photoaging 302
Aloe 303
Charentais cantaloupe 304
Coffee 304
Cucumber 304
Feverfew 305
German chamomile 305
Golden fern 305
Grape 305
Green tea 305
Licorice 305
Milk thistle 306
Mushrooms 306
Maitake mushroom 306
Shiitake mushroom 306
Oat 306
Oleander 306
Papaya 306
Pineapple 306
Pomegranate 307
Pumpkin 307
Pycnogenol 307
Rosemary 307
Sage 307
Soy 307
Swiss apple 307
Tamarind 307
Turmeric 307
Apple 308
Date palm fruit 308
Flaxseed 308
Meadowfoam 308
Mountain rose 308
Safflower 308
Recent herbal clinical trials 308
Conclusion 309
References 309
Chapter 33 Antioxidants and Anti-inflammatories 311
Antioxidants 311
Introduction 311
Antioxidants, free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) 311
ROS effects on signaling pathways 312
ROS and glycation: effects on skin aging 312
Antioxidants protect cells from free radicals, ROS, and glycation 313
Antioxidants as anti-inflammatories: effects on cell signaling pathways 313
Biology of the skin inflammatory process 314
Topical formulation of antioxidants 316
Anti-inflammatories 317
Prescription medicines for inflammation and mechanism of action 317
NSAIDs 318
Immunomodulators 319
Topical antioxidant anti-inflammatories 319
Designing effective anti-inflammatory and anti-aging topicals targeting three key mediators: TNF-alpha, IL-1, and PGE-2 320
Conclusion 321
References 321
Chapter 34 Peptides and Proteins 324
Introduction 324
Definitions 324
Amino acids 324
Peptides 325
Proteins 325
Biological functions of peptides and proteins in the skin 325
Peptides 325
Obstacles to peptide use in cosmetic formulation 326
Antioxidant peptides 326
Neuropeptides 328
Skin elasticity 329
Melanogenesis 330
Proteins 330
Proteolytic enzymes 330
T4 endonuclease V 330
Superoxide dismutase and catalase 331
Conclusion 331
References 331
Chapter 35 Cellular Growth Factors 334
Introduction 334
Physiology 334
Skin aging and wound healing 334
Role of cellular growth factors in skincare 336
Unique attributes 336
Advantages and disadvantages 337
Clinically proven benefits in reversal of skin aging and post-procedure healing 337
Risks associated with growth factors 338
Maintaining activity of growth factors through product shelf-life 338
Ingredients 339
Natural growth factors 339
Growth factors secreting stem cells 339
Synthetic growth factors 339
Related products 339
Phytokinins 339
Alternate delivery methods 340
Conclusions 340
References 340
Chapter 36 Topical Cosmeceutical Retinoids 341
Biological concepts 341
Therapeutic and cosmeceutical retinoids 341
Epidermal vitamin A 341
The intracrine pro-ligand concept 342
Hyaluronan as a partner for cosmeceutical retinoids 345
Specific profiles of cosmeceutical retinoids 346
Retinaldehyde 346
Retinol and retinyl esters 346
Associations 347
Summary 347
References 347
Chapter 37 Topical Vitamins 352
Introduction 352
Vitamin A 352
Forms 352
Mechanisms 352
Topical effects 354
Formulation challenges 354
Vitamin B3 355
Forms 355
Mechanisms 355
Topical effects 356
Formulation challenges 357
Vitamin B5 357
Forms 357
Mechanisms 357
Topical effects 358
Formulation challenges 358
Vitamin C 358
Forms 358
Mechanisms 358
Topical effects 358
Formulation challenges 359
Vitamin E 359
Forms 359
Mechanism 359
Topical effects 359
Formulation challenges 359
Other vitamins 359
Vitamin D 359
Vitamin K 359
Vitamin P (flavonoids) 359
Discussion 359
References 360
Chapter 38 Clinical Uses of Hydroxyacids 362
Introduction 362
Chemical categorization and natural occurrence of hydroxyacids 362
Alpha-hydroxyacids 362
Beta-hydroxyacids 363
Polyhydroxy acids 363
Aldobionic acids or bionic acids 363
Aromatic hydroxyacids 363
Physicochemical and biological properties distinguishing HAs 364
Water binding properties/gel matrix formation 364
Antioxidant properties 364
Antiglycation effects of PHA and bionic acids 365
Sun sensitivity 366
Sensory responses 366
MMP inhibition effects of bionic acids 367
Effects of HAs on skin – similarities and differences 367
Stratum corneum and epidermis 367
Dermis 367
Clinical uses of HAs 368
Dry skin and hyperkeratinization 368
Keratoses and dyspigmentation 369
Wrinkles and photoaging 369
Uses as a peeling agent 369
Synergy with topical drugs 369
Conclusions 371
References 371
Chapter 39 The Contribution of Dietary Nutrients and Supplements to Skin Health 373
Introduction 373
Nutrients and their role in protecting against UV-induced damage 373
Nutrients and their role in improving skin appearancwe 376
Nutrients shown to provide additional skin benefits 377
Nutrients and their potential in improving dermatologic disorders and wound healing 377
Conclusions 377
References 378
Section 2 Injectable Anti-aging Techniques 380
Chapter 40 Botulinum Toxins 380
Introduction 380
Mechanism of action 381
Neurotoxin physical characteristics 381
Product stability 381
Safety and contraindications 382
Standard injection techniques 382
General considerations 382
Treatment of the upper face 382
Treatment of the mid-face 386
Treatment of the lower face 387
Combination of botulinum toxin with fillers 388
Complications and management 388
Upper face 388
Lower face 389
On the horizon 389
References 389
Chapter 41 Hyaluronic Acid Fillers 391
Introduction 391
Chemical composition and properties of hyaluronic acid fillers 391
Indications 392
Injection techniques 393
Complications 393
Treatment optimization: persistence of dermal fillers and in vivo collagen stimulation 394
Summary 394
References 394
Chapter 42 Calcium Hydroxylapatite for Soft Tissue Augmentation 396
Introduction 396
Physiology and pharmacology 396
Indications and techniques 396
Complications 399
Conclusions 400
References 400
Chapter 43 Autologous Skin Fillers 401
Introduction 401
Platelet-rich plasma 401
Introduction 401
Preparation of platelet-rich plasma 401
Techniques for PRP injection 402
Adverse reactions 402
Autologous fibroblast cell therapy 403
Introduction 403
Preparation 403
Techniques for autologous fibroblast injection 403
Adverse reactions 404
Adipose-derived stem cells 404
Introduction 404
Preparation 404
Techniques for adipose-derived stem cell injection 404
Adverse reactions 404
Conclusion 404
References 405
Chapter 44 Polylactic Acid Fillers 406
Introduction 406
Advantages and disadvantages 407
Standard injection techniques 407
Advanced techniques 408
Complications 409
PLLA compared with other fillers 409
Conclusions 410
References 410
Section 3 Resurfacing Techniques 411
Chapter 45 Superficial Chemical Peels 411
Definition 411
Physiology 411
Indications 411
Depth of peel 411
Histologic changes 411
Formulation 411
Alfa-hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic, malic, oxalic, tartaric, and citric acid) 411
Pyruvic acid (alfa-keto acid) 412
Jessner’s solution (resorcinol 14%, lactic acid 14%, and salicylic acid 14% in alcohol) 412
Trichloroacetic acid 412
Salicylic acid (ortho-hydroxybenzoic acid) 413
Tretinoin peel 413
Resorcinol (m-hydroxybenzene) 413
Solid carbon dioxide (dry ice) 414
Advantages and disadvantages 414
Standard technique 414
Initial consult 414
Priming 414
Peel procedure 414
Post-care 416
Advanced techniques/specific uses 416
Depth controlled TCA peel 416
Fluor-hydroxy pulse peel 416
Chemical reconstruction of skin scars 416
Treatment of acne vulgaris 416
Treatment of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation/melasma 417
Complications 417
Conclusions 417
References 417
Chapter 46 Medium Depth Chemical Peels 418
Introduction 418
Formulations 418
Trichloracetic acid 418
Advantages and disadvantages 419
Indications 419
Contraindications 420
Standard technique 420
Jessner’s TCA peel procedure after Monheit 420
Informed consent 421
Setup 421
Patient preparation 421
Analgesia and sedation 421
Application technique 421
Post-procedure 423
Complications 423
Long-term care 425
Conclusions 426
References 427
Chapter 47 CO2 Laser Resurfacing: Confluent and Fractionated 428
Introduction 428
CO2 laser resurfacing 428
Fractionated CO2 laser resurfacing 430
Active and Deep FX-Lumenis 431
Fraxel Re:Pair – Solta Medical 435
MiXto SX – Lasering USA 436
Mosaic eCO2™ – Lutronic 437
Pixel CO2 – Alma Lasers 439
SmartXide DOT – DEKA, Italy 439
CO2RE – Syneron–Candela 440
SmartSkin – Cynosure 440
ProFractional and ProFractional-XC – Sciton 440
Pixel 2940 – Alma 440
Lux 2940 – Cynosure 441
Xeo Pearl Fractionated – Cutera 442
Technique and procedures for fractionated laser treatment (Active/Deep FX) 442
Preoperative 442
Postoperative 443
Identification and management of complications 443
Conclusions 443
References 443
Further reading 444
Chapter 48 Nonablative Lasers 445
Introduction 445
Pathophysiology 445
Nonablative modalities 446
Potassium titanyl phosphate (KTP) 532 nmlaser 446
Pulse dye laser (PDL) 585 nm or 595 nm 446
Intense pulsed light (IPL) 447
1320 nm Neodymium yttrium aluminium garnet (Nd:YAG) 448
Q-switched (QS) Nd:YAG 1064 nm laser 448
Erbium:glass 1540 nm 448
1450 nm diode laser 449
Infrared light devices (1100–1800 nm) 449
Radiofrequency devices (RF) 449
Advanced approaches 450
Complications 451
Conclusions 451
References 451
Chapter 49 Dermabrasion 453
Definition and history 453
Mechanism of action 453
Indications 454
Advantages and disadvantages 455
Patient selection and preoperative consultation 455
Instrumentation 456
Standard technique 457
Advanced technique 458
Postoperative wound care 458
Summary 459
References 459
Section 4 Skin Modulation Techniques 461
Chapter 50 Laser-assisted Hair Removal 461
Introduction 461
Biology of hair follicles 461
Basic concepts of laser-assisted hair removal 462
Preoperative management 462
Description of techniques 463
Long pulsed 694 nm ruby laser 463
Long pulsed 755 nm alexandrite laser 463
Long pulsed 800 nm diode laser 464
1064 nm Nd:YAG laser 464
Intense pulsed light 464
Radiofrequency combinations 464
Other removal methods for non-pigmented hair 465
Postoperative management 465
Complications 465
Future directions 466
Conclusions 466
References 466
Chapter 51 Radiofrequency Devices 467
Introduction 467
Radiofrequency devices 467
Monopolar radiofrequency 467
Complications 468
Future directions 469
Summary 469
Bipolar radiofrequency and light 469
Bipolar radiofrequency and vacuum 470
Unipolar and bipolar radiofrequency device 470
Subdermal radiofrequency 470
Conclusions 470
Further reading 470
Chapter 52 LED Photomodulation for Reversal of Photoaging and Reduction of Inflammation 472
Introduction 472
Clinical applications 473
Photorejuvenation 473
Anti-inflammatory effects 474
Photodynamic therapy 475
Conclusions 476
References [CH3] 476
Section 5 Skin Contouring Techniques 479
Chapter 53 Liposuction: Manual, Mechanical, and Laser Assisted 479
Introduction: history of liposuction with tumescent local anesthesia 479
Physiology: what skin contour problem does the procedure address and how does this procedure alter the contour problem? 480
Advantages and disadvantages 480
Indications for tumescent liposuction, by anatomic site 481
Abdomen 481
Hips, outer thighs, and buttocks 483
Arms 483
Neck and jowls 483
Female breast 484
Male chest 485
Anesthesia technique 485
Standard and advanced operating technique 486
Equipment 486
Complications 487
Preoperative phase 487
Intraoperative phase 487
Postoperative phase 488
Conclusions and future directions 488
Laser-assisted liposuction 488
Liposuction with TLA for lipedema 489
References 490
Chapter 54 Liposuction of the Neck 492
Introduction 492
Anatomy 492
Aesthetic considerations 493
Patient selection 493
Consultation and physical examination 494
Procedure 495
Markings 495
Anesthesia and infiltration 495
Liposuction: standard operative techniques 496
Postoperative course 497
Complications 498
Advanced and ancillary operating techniques 499
Conclusions 500
References 500
Chapter 55 Hand Recontouring with Calcium Hydroxylapatite 501
Introduction 501
Physiology of the hand 501
Advantages of calcium hydroxylapatite for treatment of the aging hand 501
Technique of injection of CaHA into the hand 502
Preparing the Radiesse-lidocaine mixture 502
Where to inject 503
How to inject 503
Post-injection hand massage 504
Post-treatment care 504
Adverse events 504
Results 504
Discussion 506
Conclusions 506
References 507
Section 6 Implementation of Cosmetic Dermatology into Therapeutics 508
Chapter 56 Anti-aging Regimens 508
Introduction 508
Cleansing 508
Exfoliation 509
Protection 509
Treatment 511
Hydroxyacids 511
Retinoids 512
Antioxidants 512
Vitamin C 513
Vitamin E (d-?-tocopherol) 513
Vitamin C with vitamin E 513
Vitamin C with vitamin E and ferulic acid 514
Other antioxidants 514
Conclusions 515
References 515
Chapter 57 Over-the-counter Acne Treatments 517
Introduction 517
Soaps and syndets 517
Benzoyl peroxide 518
Alpha-hydroxy acids 519
Salicylic acid 519
Polyhydroxy acids 520
Sulfur 520
Triclosan and triclocarban 520
Retinols 520
Cleansing cloths 520
Mechanical treatments 520
Essential oils 522
Oral vitamins 522
Conclusions 522
References 522
Chapter 58 Rosacea Regimens 525
Introduction 525
Physiology of rosacea 525
Rosacea flare 526
Rosacea skincare: available OTC products 526
Cleansing and moisturizing 527
Cosmetics 528
Sunscreens 529
Available prescription agents 530
Oral antibiotic therapy 530
Topical therapy 530
Other treatment modalities 530
Light-based therapies 531
Natural actives 531
Conclusions 531
References 532
Chapter 59 Eczema Regimens 533
Introduction 533
Etiology 533
Moisturizer mechanism of action 533
Moisturizer goals in eczema 534
Moisturizer delivery systems 535
Moisturizing emulsions 535
Moisturizing serums 535
Moisturizing liposomes and niosomes 535
Multivesicular emulsions 536
Moisturizing nanoemulsions 536
Developing a moisturizer regimen 537
Conclusions 537
References 537
Chapter 60 Psoriasis Regimens 538
Introduction 538
Physiology 538
Role of OTC medications 539
Psoriasis education 539
Role of self-treating 539
OTC products recommended by physicians 539
Compliance in psoriasis treatment 540
Moisturizers and keratolytics 540
Tar 541
Hydrocortisone 541
Other OTC products 541
Ultraviolet light (UV) therapy 542
Combination regimens 542
Summary 543
References 543
Index 545
EULA 563
| Erscheint lt. Verlag | 8.10.2015 |
|---|---|
| Sprache | englisch |
| Themenwelt | Medizin / Pharmazie ► Allgemeines / Lexika |
| Medizinische Fachgebiete ► Chirurgie ► Ästhetische und Plastische Chirurgie | |
| Medizin / Pharmazie ► Medizinische Fachgebiete ► Dermatologie | |
| Schlagworte | Anti-Aging • Botox • botulinum toxin • cleansers • Cosmeceuticals • Cosmetic dermatology • Cosmetic / Esthetic Dermatology • Cosmetics • Dermatologie • Fillers • Kosmetische Chirurgie • Kosmetische u. Ästhetische Dermatologie • Kosmetische u. Ãsthetische Dermatologie • Liposuction • Medical Science • Medizin • moisturisers • Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery • Plastische u. rekonstruierende Chirurgie • skincare |
| ISBN-10 | 1-118-65548-6 / 1118655486 |
| ISBN-13 | 978-1-118-65548-1 / 9781118655481 |
| Informationen gemäß Produktsicherheitsverordnung (GPSR) | |
| Haben Sie eine Frage zum Produkt? |
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